“My Neighbor Totoro“ on Route 249

Are you ready to roll? Climb into the car

and explore the sea and mountains of Noto!

Let’s start the tour at one of the rental car outlets around JR Kanazawa station. Leaving the station, drive some 13 kilometers (8 miles) north toward the Sea of Japan to get to Noto Satoyama Kaido freeway at Uchinada (内灘) Interchange. The freeway is simply following the coastline dotted with sandy beaches, and after 30minutes or so, heads into the rolling hills. Get off at Nishiyama (西山) Interchange, and hop on 116 north to Route 249 north.
If you depart Kanazawa late in the morning, you may feel a bit hungry by the time you get around here. You might enjoy a fresh sandwich at Pension & café Cruise (クルーズ) off Route 249.
Back on Route 249, head north. The road is dotted with peaceful villages of Shika (志賀) surrounded by paddy fields, and vegetable fields. Typical satoyama scenery.
Did we mention satoyama and satoumi? These are keywords of Noto. Satoyama is a word that describes Japan’s unspoilt farming landscape co-existing with local life and nature, and satoumi represents coastal areas in which the sea has a strong connection with peoples’ livelihoods. The satoyama and satoumi of Noto Peninsula were the first in Japan to be chosen as Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHS).
As the season goes, satoyama landscape shifts and furnishes its own beauty. In late spring, the water-filled rice paddies just after planting sparkle in the sunlight, while in summer, they turns lush green as the ears of rice sway in the gentle breeze. In early autumn, after the harvest, you will find haza, a pole frame assembled on a ridge of paddies, on which bundles of rice are hung. It is a traditional, time-consuming way of drying rice.

Imprint the view of the coastline in your memory and camera.

Enough satoyama talk. Turn left at Matsunoki (松ノ木) intersection onto 301 which becomes 36, and head for Noto Kongo Coast (能登金剛) which offers impressive views of rugged natural terrain. Take a first stop in Noto at Ganmon (巌門) rock formation. The name Ganmon means “rock gate”. Look down at the strangely shaped rocks from the cliff top, and you’ll understand. This is a famous sightseeing spot, so there is an information center and restaurant.
The northbound 36 merges with Route 249. Take the side road instead of going through Urukami (生神) tunnel, the first tunnel after Ganmon, to admire another bizarre rock formation called Hatagoiwa. (機具岩) They are said to be husband-and-wife rocks.

Relish diversified landscapes and time-honored villages.


Motor a few kilometers north and you get to the center of Shika, where some eateries, convenience stores, and gas station are lined. Spend a moment at Michinoeki Togi Umikaido (道の駅 とぎ海街道) right beside Masuhogaura Beach (増穂浦). The beach is known to be an excellent place for shell-collecting (sakuragai, or cherry shell), as well as bathing. Take a short stroll along the beach and refresh yourself before holding the wheel again.
Route 249 keeps winding, up and down through the hills, and leads you to the Sea of Japan again. Keep driving a few kilometers along the sea, passing by Kotogahama Beach (琴ケ浜海岸) which is famous for “singing sand”, and you’ll come upon a charming fishing village, Koshiboso (腰細). The landscape evokes nostalgia, with houses whose walls have been muted by the sea air. Scan the rocky shores, and the odds are that you will catch a glimpse of local folks who are fishing or collecting sea weed.
Continue on Route 249 through Michinoeki Akakami (赤神) into Kuroshima District (黒島), a picturesque area which once flourished as a port town. The pleasing ambience of its narrow, steep streets make it fun to discover on foot, and the beautiful scenery from the hill is unmissable. Visit the Kadomike (角海家), The old residence of shipping merchant Kadomi family, for a lesson on Kuroshima’s maritime heritage.